Two universal truths about lawns – there is no perfect grass, they all have their advantages and disadvantages, and lawns go from order to disorder over a period of time unless you step in and make corrections while they are small. St. Augustine grass and Bahia grass are popular lawn subjects, but many people are [&#8230;]

<figure id="attachment_9399" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-9399" style="width: 464px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class=" wp-image-9399" src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/charlotteco/files/2024/11/20241112_134320-300x143.jpg" alt="a green area of grass" width="464" height="221" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-9399" class="wp-caption-text">Zoysia Offers A Very Dense, Fine-Textured Groundcover</figcaption></figure>
Two universal truths about lawns – there is no perfect grass, they all have their advantages and disadvantages, and lawns go from order to disorder over a period of time unless you step in and make corrections while they are small. St. Augustine grass and Bahia grass are popular lawn subjects, but many people are looking at Zoysia grass. This relatively new grass to the neighborhood offers a different texture and improved overall performance compared to past Zoysia cultivars thanks to breeding efforts. Is Zoysia grass for you?
Let’s look at the advantages and disadvantages of using Zoysia as turf grass. Zoysia can be maintained on less nitrogen than St. Augustine grass, has a very dense growth habit, and can be mowed fairly low – two to two and one-half inches in the case of ‘Empire’ Zoysia, a common cultivar. On the flip side, it takes as much water as St. Augustine (and will go dormant and turn brown without water), can develop thatch if overfertilized with nitrogen, is susceptible to hunting billbug (an insect pest) and can develop a fungal disease called large patch. For the most part, these disadvantages can be managed. Zoysia is normally established with either vegetative plugs or sod. There is no need to apply fertilizer until thirty to sixty days after establishment.  Immediately after any fertilizer application, water it in with one-quarter inch of irrigation. Don’t forget to review our Charlotte County Fertilizer Ordinance &#8211; please see here &#8211; <a href="https://gcc02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fsfyl.ifas.ufl.edu%2Fmedia%2Fsfylifasufledu%2Fcharlotte%2Fdocs%2Fpdf%2FFertilizer-Ordinance1.pdf&amp;data=05%7C02%7CPaul.Schumaker%40charlottecountyfl.gov%7C6971e8a7fe0e44adb56908dd08dc7e7f%7C6e60678d3f1f4282a0336669a73e14ad%7C0%7C0%7C638676465348959016%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&amp;sdata=oAcmj8uUISmg8p5KR5%2FDkUZMgThZ6qd3RYXqurRQQQk%3D&amp;reserved=0">https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/media/sfylifasufledu/charlotte/docs/pdf/Fertilizer-Ordinance1.pdf</a> &#8211; for more details on proper fertilization and the Restricted Season.
Mow Zoysia when the grass blades are three to four inches high so that you only remove about one-third of the grass blade. Water turf so that you apply one-half to three-quarters of an inch of irrigation per event. Check local utilities for any watering restrictions and application times.
As mentioned above, hunting billbugs, a tiny weevil, are perhaps the most common Zoysia grass insect pest. Most of the damage occurs from fall to spring with symptoms including damaged stems and rhizomes causing patches of turf to die in an irregular pattern. Large patch is a fungal disease that is also most common during the cooler part of the year. Large patch causes yellow patches to develop which turn brown and can expand to several feet in diameter. While there are fungicides to control this disease, cultural practices such as not using excessive nitrogen during seasons most conducive to this disease and limiting irrigation to early morning so that the grass can dry out. Mow diseased areas last and wash grass clippings off before mowing disease-free areas.
‘Empire’ Zoysia is the most popular Zoysia in our area and the cultivar most likely to be found at garden centers and sod farms. Good color and successful performance on sandy soils and competitive growth make ‘Empire’ an appropriate choice. ‘Icon™’ is another zoysiagrass cultivar developed in Australia known for its very high salt tolerance, and little thatch production. Zoysia offers a different texture that our other common warm-season grasses do not provide.  That other turfgrass, Zoysia is becoming more popular all the time! For more information on all types of turf questions, or to ask a question, you can also call the Master Gardener Volunteer Helpdesk on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Ralph E. Mitchell is the Director/Horticulture Agent for UF/IFAS Extension Charlotte County. He can be reached at 941-764-4344 or <a href="mailto:ralph.mitchell@charlottecountyfl.gov">ralph.mitchell@charlottecountyfl.gov</a>. Connect with us on social media. Like us on Facebook <a href="https://www.facebook.com/CharlotteCountyExtension">@CharlotteCountyExtension</a> and follow us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ifascharco/">@ifascharco</a>.
Resources: 
Unruh, J. B., Schiavon, M., Lindsey, A. J., Kenworthy, K. E. &amp; Trenholm, L. E. (2022) Zoysiagrass for Florida Lawns.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS, 
Elliott, M. L. &amp; Harmon, P. F. (2018) Large Patch the University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Zoysia Offers A Very Dense, Fine-Textured Groundcover
Two universal truths about lawns – there is no perfect grass, they all have their advantages and disadvantages, and lawns go from order to disorder over a period of time unless you step in and make corrections while they are small. St. Augustine grass and Bahia grass are popular lawn subjects, but many people are looking at Zoysia grass. This relatively new grass to the neighborhood offers a different texture and improved overall performance compared to past Zoysia cultivars thanks to breeding efforts. Is Zoysia grass for you?
Let’s look at the advantages and disadvantages of using Zoysia as turf grass. Zoysia can be maintained on less nitrogen than St. Augustine grass, has a very dense growth habit, and can be mowed fairly low – two to two and one-half inches in the case of ‘Empire’ Zoysia, a common cultivar. On the flip side, it takes as much water as St. Augustine (and will go dormant and turn brown without water), can develop thatch if overfertilized with nitrogen, is susceptible to hunting billbug (an insect pest) and can develop a fungal disease called large patch. For the most part, these disadvantages can be managed. Zoysia is normally established with either vegetative plugs or sod. There is no need to apply fertilizer until thirty to sixty days after establishment.  Immediately after any fertilizer application, water it in with one-quarter inch of irrigation. Don’t forget to review our Charlotte County Fertilizer Ordinance – please see here – https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/media/sfylifasufledu/charlotte/docs/pdf/Fertilizer-Ordinance1.pdf – for more details on proper fertilization and the Restricted Season.
Mow Zoysia when the grass blades are three to four inches high so that you only remove about one-third of the grass blade. Water turf so that you apply one-half to three-quarters of an inch of irrigation per event. Check local utilities for any watering restrictions and application times.
As mentioned above, hunting billbugs, a tiny weevil, are perhaps the most common Zoysia grass insect pest. Most of the damage occurs from fall to spring with symptoms including damaged stems and rhizomes causing patches of turf to die in an irregular pattern. Large patch is a fungal disease that is also most common during the cooler part of the year. Large patch causes yellow patches to develop which turn brown and can expand to several feet in diameter. While there are fungicides to control this disease, cultural practices such as not using excessive nitrogen during seasons most conducive to this disease and limiting irrigation to early morning so that the grass can dry out. Mow diseased areas last and wash grass clippings off before mowing disease-free areas.
‘Empire’ Zoysia is the most popular Zoysia in our area and the cultivar most likely to be found at garden centers and sod farms. Good color and successful performance on sandy soils and competitive growth make ‘Empire’ an appropriate choice. ‘Icon™’ is another zoysiagrass cultivar developed in Australia known for its very high salt tolerance, and little thatch production. Zoysia offers a different texture that our other common warm-season grasses do not provide.  That other turfgrass, Zoysia is becoming more popular all the time! For more information on all types of turf questions, or to ask a question, you can also call the Master Gardener Volunteer Helpdesk on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Ralph E. Mitchell is the Director/Horticulture Agent for UF/IFAS Extension Charlotte County. He can be reached at 941-764-4344 or ralph.mitchell@charlottecountyfl.gov. Connect with us on social media. Like us on Facebook @CharlotteCountyExtension and follow us on Instagram @ifascharco.
Resources:
Unruh, J. B., Schiavon, M., Lindsey, A. J., Kenworthy, K. E. & Trenholm, L. E. (2022) Zoysiagrass for Florida Lawns.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS,
Elliott, M. L. & Harmon, P. F. (2018) Large Patch the University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Two universal truths about lawns – there is no perfect grass, they all have their advantages and disadvantages, and lawns go from order to disorder over a period of time unless you step in and make corrections while they are small. St. Augustine grass and Bahia grass are popular lawn subjects, but many people are […]

Z is for Zoysia

Healthy lawns are things that when green and healthy, we can perhaps not give it too much attention. But, with a bit of green or brown, the lawn is suddenly very important.  We want it green and full.  Does that healthy lawn affect the environment negatively? Lawns can sometimes take a bad rap.  In fact, [&#8230;]

Healthy lawns are things that when green and healthy, we can perhaps not give it too much attention. But, with a bit of green or brown, the lawn is suddenly very important.  We want it green and full.  Does that healthy lawn affect the environment negatively?
Lawns can sometimes take a bad rap.  In fact, a healthy lawn can reduce runoff from rain or irrigation.  The lawn-slowed water allows the water to saturate into the soil and root zone below.  Healthy turf does have its benefits.  You can conserve water and save yourself some money too!
<h3>Irrigation and Calibration</h3>
Your irrigation system should be set at “off” most of the time.  You should water your lawn just as it is showing wilt, i.e., the grass blades are folding slightly and your foot prints may show in the lawn and don’t lift back up.  Watering when you lawn really needs it will result in your lawn to growing deeper roots and and being more drought resistance.  If you irrigate your lawn two times per week automatically during the growing season, you are training your lawn to grow shallower roots.  You want a deeply-rooted lawn in the event there are any water restrictions.  Irrigate no more than one-half to three-quarters of an inch per watering applied one time a week when dormant and no more than two times per week during the heat of summer.
To determine if your irrigation is providing that much at each watering, you need to calibrate your system.  Set clean tuna cans or mini-rain gauges throughout a zone at a time and let your irrigation run that night as long as it would typically run.  Check the tuna cans in the morning to see if your irrigation system has supplied one-half to three-quarters of an inch of water.  Adjust the time of irrigation in each zone as needed to provide the required amount of water. Try it in your other zones.  You only need to do this one time per year.
<h3>Fertilization and Calculation</h3>
Another way to have a healthy lawn without adversely affecting water quality is to fertilize correctly.  Start with a soil test to check pH and nutrients.  Often our soils do not require phosphorus, so you could use 15-0-15, or 15% Nitrogen, 0% Phosphorus and 15% Potassium.  You could also consider 16-4-8.  Those fertilizers have a 1:1 or a 2:1 ratio of Nitrogen to Potassium.  Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers as well as weed-n-feed formulations anytime during the year.
If you have chosen a fertilizer that is all quick release, the most nitrogen that you can put down at a time is one-half lb. N per 1000 square feet.  If you use a fertilizer that is that is at least 30% slow release (either coated or water insoluble nitrogen), you can use 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 square feet.  Do not apply more than recommended at each application.   More than .5 pound of “quick release” N fertilizer cannot only potentially damage your turf but will move through the soil and have potentially negative impacts on water quality.
Calculate how much fertilizer to use by using your Nitrogen number.  If using a 15-0-15 slow-release fertilizer, divide 100/15 = 6.67 pounds of fertilizer for 1,000 square feet.  If you are spreading your fertilizer over 3,000 square feet, you would multiply the 6.67 x 3.  You would apply 20 pounds for the 3,000 sq. ft.
<h3>Mow Correctly</h3>
Just a few last thoughts on achieving your healthy lawn.  Mow your lawn at the correct height – maintain Floratam St. Augustine turf at 3.5 to 4 inches, ProVista St. Augustine at up to 3 inches, Bahia at 3.5 to 4 inches, and Empire Zoysia maintained at 2 to 2-1/2 inches.  Lawn mowed at the correct height will hinder weed growth.  Additionally you should not take off more than 1/3 of a blade at a time.  That can result in a reduction in roots, negating all the efficient irrigation work!
For more information on Florida lawns, visit this Florida Lawn Handbook link at <a href="https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/entity/topic/book_florida_lawn_handbook_3rd_ed">https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/entity/topic/book_florida_lawn_handbook_3rd_ed</a>.  For troubleshooting turf, visit plant clinic Zoom!  Check out the calendar for the zoom links to virtually visit an Ask the Master Gardener Plant clinic.

Healthy lawns are things that when green and healthy, we can perhaps not give it too much attention. But, with a bit of green or brown, the lawn is suddenly very important.  We want it green and full.  Does that healthy lawn affect the environment negatively?
Lawns can sometimes take a bad rap.  In fact, a healthy lawn can reduce runoff from rain or irrigation.  The lawn-slowed water allows the water to saturate into the soil and root zone below.  Healthy turf does have its benefits.  You can conserve water and save yourself some money too!
Irrigation and Calibration
Your irrigation system should be set at “off” most of the time.  You should water your lawn just as it is showing wilt, i.e., the grass blades are folding slightly and your foot prints may show in the lawn and don’t lift back up.  Watering when you lawn really needs it will result in your lawn to growing deeper roots and and being more drought resistance.  If you irrigate your lawn two times per week automatically during the growing season, you are training your lawn to grow shallower roots.  You want a deeply-rooted lawn in the event there are any water restrictions.  Irrigate no more than one-half to three-quarters of an inch per watering applied one time a week when dormant and no more than two times per week during the heat of summer.
To determine if your irrigation is providing that much at each watering, you need to calibrate your system.  Set clean tuna cans or mini-rain gauges throughout a zone at a time and let your irrigation run that night as long as it would typically run.  Check the tuna cans in the morning to see if your irrigation system has supplied one-half to three-quarters of an inch of water.  Adjust the time of irrigation in each zone as needed to provide the required amount of water. Try it in your other zones.  You only need to do this one time per year.
Fertilization and Calculation
Another way to have a healthy lawn without adversely affecting water quality is to fertilize correctly.  Start with a soil test to check pH and nutrients.  Often our soils do not require phosphorus, so you could use 15-0-15, or 15% Nitrogen, 0% Phosphorus and 15% Potassium.  You could also consider 16-4-8.  Those fertilizers have a 1:1 or a 2:1 ratio of Nitrogen to Potassium.  Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers as well as weed-n-feed formulations anytime during the year.
If you have chosen a fertilizer that is all quick release, the most nitrogen that you can put down at a time is one-half lb. N per 1000 square feet.  If you use a fertilizer that is that is at least 30% slow release (either coated or water insoluble nitrogen), you can use 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 square feet.  Do not apply more than recommended at each application.   More than .5 pound of “quick release” N fertilizer cannot only potentially damage your turf but will move through the soil and have potentially negative impacts on water quality.
Calculate how much fertilizer to use by using your Nitrogen number.  If using a 15-0-15 slow-release fertilizer, divide 100/15 = 6.67 pounds of fertilizer for 1,000 square feet.  If you are spreading your fertilizer over 3,000 square feet, you would multiply the 6.67 x 3.  You would apply 20 pounds for the 3,000 sq. ft.
Mow Correctly
Just a few last thoughts on achieving your healthy lawn.  Mow your lawn at the correct height – maintain Floratam St. Augustine turf at 3.5 to 4 inches, ProVista St. Augustine at up to 3 inches, Bahia at 3.5 to 4 inches, and Empire Zoysia maintained at 2 to 2-1/2 inches.  Lawn mowed at the correct height will hinder weed growth.  Additionally you should not take off more than 1/3 of a blade at a time.  That can result in a reduction in roots, negating all the efficient irrigation work!
For more information on Florida lawns, visit this Florida Lawn Handbook link at https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/entity/topic/book_florida_lawn_handbook_3rd_ed.  For troubleshooting turf, visit plant clinic Zoom!  Check out the calendar for the zoom links to virtually visit an Ask the Master Gardener Plant clinic.

Healthy lawns are things that when green and healthy, we can perhaps not give it too much attention. But, with a bit of green or brown, the lawn is suddenly very important.  We want it green and full.  Does that healthy lawn affect the environment negatively? Lawns can sometimes take a bad rap.  In fact, […]

A Few How-To’s for a Healthy Lawn

A healthy lawn serves many purposes such as prevents soil erosion, filters pollution, beautifies the landscape and increases home value. Proper turfgrass selection is one of the most important factors in developing and maintaining a healthy attractive lawn. Turf selection should be based on factors such as environmental conditions, turf quality desired, maintenance requirements and [&#8230;]

A healthy lawn serves many purposes such as prevents soil erosion, filters pollution, beautifies the landscape and increases home value. Proper turfgrass selection is one of the most important factors in developing and maintaining a healthy attractive lawn. Turf selection should be based on factors such as environmental conditions, turf quality desired, maintenance requirements and homeowner’s association stipulation if applies. Environmental conditions include temperature, moisture, and shade adaptation.
Turfgrass can be classified into two groups, depending on temperature requirement. There are cool season and warm season turfgrasses.  Cool Season grasses grow best during the cool months of the year (60-75 degrees) and often struggles in the summer. In Florida, cool season grasses may do well in the northern part of the state including the Panhandle. Ryegrass is a popular cool season grass that is used to overseed warm season grasses in the winter, especially on athletic fields. Warm season turfgrasses grow best during the warm months of the year, 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.  Warm season grasses go dormant during cold winter and resume growth when temperature is favorable. Warm season grasses Include bermudagrass, centipedegrass, zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass and bahiagrass.
St Augustine grasses – Have large flat stems with broad coarse leaves, with bluish-green color, and form a dense turf. There are many cultivars of St. Augustine available, which make it suitable for many different sites. There is a St Augustine cultivar for almost every soil type and environmental condition. For example, Florotam grows best in full sun while CitraBlue, bitter blue and Seville will grow well in partial shade. There is also ProVisita, a new St Augustine cultivar that is tolerant to glyphosate (brands such as roundup and farmwork). Overall, St Augustine requires supplemental irrigation during times of drought.
Centipedes grasses- Centipede has a light green which makes it not very attractive to many. It requires low maintenance such as infrequent mowing and light fertilization. It tolerates low fertile soils and light shade. Centipede grass subject to the disease centipede decline which can be prevent by use proper cultural practices such as proper mowing, irrigation, and fertilization.
Bahia grasses- Commonly used as a utility or roadside turf and is considered a pasture grass. Bahia has a ragged appearance and is not as attractive as other commonly used turfgrasses in Florida. It is drought tolerant, meaning it will go dormant with low soil moisture and high temperature. Bahia will bounce back from dormancy after a good rain event or if sufficient irrigation is being applied.
Zoysia grasses– There are many cultivars of zoysia grasses with varying textures from very fine leaf blade to coarse. Zoysia produce a dense turf and requires less nitrogen than Florotam the most used St. Augustine grass in Florida. Some cultivars of zoysia seed are available on the market.
Bermuda grasses&#8211; these Warm-season grasses adapted to many soil conditions, produced an attractive turf when fertilized and mowed correctly. Bermuda is not a very popular grass on residential lots in Central and south Florida because it requires a lot of nitrogen fertilizer, and water to stay healthy and attractive. Most athletic fields use Bermuda grass. Common Bermuda can be established from seed, but seed are no available for hybrid. Bermuda thrives in hot weather and does not do well in shade; it spreads rapidly and can be a problem around flower beds.
For more information on turfgrasses and any other related horticulture topics, contact Grantly Ricketts with UF/IFAS Extension in St Lucie at 772-462-2847 or email at <a href="mailto:gricketts@ufl.edu">gricketts@ufl.edu</a>.
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A healthy lawn serves many purposes such as prevents soil erosion, filters pollution, beautifies the landscape and increases home value. Proper turfgrass selection is one of the most important factors in developing and maintaining a healthy attractive lawn. Turf selection should be based on factors such as environmental conditions, turf quality desired, maintenance requirements and homeowner’s association stipulation if applies. Environmental conditions include temperature, moisture, and shade adaptation.
Turfgrass can be classified into two groups, depending on temperature requirement. There are cool season and warm season turfgrasses.  Cool Season grasses grow best during the cool months of the year (60-75 degrees) and often struggles in the summer. In Florida, cool season grasses may do well in the northern part of the state including the Panhandle. Ryegrass is a popular cool season grass that is used to overseed warm season grasses in the winter, especially on athletic fields. Warm season turfgrasses grow best during the warm months of the year, 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.  Warm season grasses go dormant during cold winter and resume growth when temperature is favorable. Warm season grasses Include bermudagrass, centipedegrass, zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass and bahiagrass.
St Augustine grasses – Have large flat stems with broad coarse leaves, with bluish-green color, and form a dense turf. There are many cultivars of St. Augustine available, which make it suitable for many different sites. There is a St Augustine cultivar for almost every soil type and environmental condition. For example, Florotam grows best in full sun while CitraBlue, bitter blue and Seville will grow well in partial shade. There is also ProVisita, a new St Augustine cultivar that is tolerant to glyphosate (brands such as roundup and farmwork). Overall, St Augustine requires supplemental irrigation during times of drought.
Centipedes grasses- Centipede has a light green which makes it not very attractive to many. It requires low maintenance such as infrequent mowing and light fertilization. It tolerates low fertile soils and light shade. Centipede grass subject to the disease centipede decline which can be prevent by use proper cultural practices such as proper mowing, irrigation, and fertilization.
Bahia grasses- Commonly used as a utility or roadside turf and is considered a pasture grass. Bahia has a ragged appearance and is not as attractive as other commonly used turfgrasses in Florida. It is drought tolerant, meaning it will go dormant with low soil moisture and high temperature. Bahia will bounce back from dormancy after a good rain event or if sufficient irrigation is being applied.
Zoysia grasses– There are many cultivars of zoysia grasses with varying textures from very fine leaf blade to coarse. Zoysia produce a dense turf and requires less nitrogen than Florotam the most used St. Augustine grass in Florida. Some cultivars of zoysia seed are available on the market.
Bermuda grasses– these Warm-season grasses adapted to many soil conditions, produced an attractive turf when fertilized and mowed correctly. Bermuda is not a very popular grass on residential lots in Central and south Florida because it requires a lot of nitrogen fertilizer, and water to stay healthy and attractive. Most athletic fields use Bermuda grass. Common Bermuda can be established from seed, but seed are no available for hybrid. Bermuda thrives in hot weather and does not do well in shade; it spreads rapidly and can be a problem around flower beds.
For more information on turfgrasses and any other related horticulture topics, contact Grantly Ricketts with UF/IFAS Extension in St Lucie at 772-462-2847 or email at gricketts@ufl.edu.

A healthy lawn serves many purposes such as prevents soil erosion, filters pollution, beautifies the landscape and increases home value. Proper turfgrass selection is one of the most important factors in developing and maintaining a healthy attractive lawn. Turf selection should be based on factors such as environmental conditions, turf quality desired, maintenance requirements and […]

Florida Turfgrass Selection

Turfgrass

Turfgrasses

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Poaceae

Poaceae (taxonomic family)

Entry terms: Zoysia, Zoydia, Osterdamia, Matrella, zoysia grasses, zoysiagrasses, Brousemichea

Zoysiagrass

Publications

Zoysiagrass for Florida Lawns

Hunting Billbug, Sphenophorus venatus vestitus Chittenden (Insecta: Coleoptera: Curculionidae)

Z is for Zoysia

A Few How-To’s for a Healthy Lawn

Florida Turfgrass Selection