In Part I of this series, we looked at the plant structures involved in propagation, including stems, leaves, buds and roots. Now it’s time to put that anatomy knowledge to work! A cutting is a portion of a plant that is removed from the parent and used to produce a new plant. Unlike propagation by [&#8230;]

<figure id="attachment_11905" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11905" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/09/Herbaceous-cutting-1-scaled.jpg"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-11905 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="" width="300" height="225" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/09/Herbaceous-cutting-1-300x225.jpg"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11905" class="wp-caption-text">American beautyberry, pentas, gardenia, and coleus can all be propagated from softwood, or herbaceous, cuttings. Photo: Lauren Spaduzzi, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
In Part I of this series, we looked at the plant structures involved in propagation, including stems, leaves, buds and roots. Now it’s time to put that anatomy knowledge to work!
A cutting is a portion of a plant that is removed from the parent and used to produce a new plant. Unlike propagation by seed, propagation from cuttings is asexual, meaning the new plant is genetically identical to the plant it came from. In other words, the new plant is a clone of the parent plant.
The basic idea is simple: a cutting must replace what it lost. A piece of stem without roots must produce new roots, while a leaf cutting may need to produce both roots and shoots. Which plant part you take, and whether it can develop into a complete plant, depends on the species.
&nbsp;
<figure id="attachment_11897" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11897" style="width: 225px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/09/Awabuki-viburnum-cutting-2-scaled.jpg"><img decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-11897 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="" width="225" height="300" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/09/Awabuki-viburnum-cutting-2-225x300.jpg"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11897" class="wp-caption-text">Awabuki viburnum is best propagated from soft or semi-hardwood cuttings. Start by removing the leaves from the lower half of the cutting to expose nodes. Photo: Lauren Spaduzzi, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
<h3>Stem Cuttings</h3>
Stem cuttings are one of the most common ways to propagate landscape plants. A section of healthy stem containing one or more nodes is removed from the parent plant. The cutting can then develop adventitious roots, while buds along the stem produce new shoot growth.
Remember those nodes from Part I? This is why instructions often tell you to make a cutting just below a node. Remove the leaves from the lower portion of the cutting and insert that end into a moist, well-drained rooting medium, leaving one or more nodes above the surface. Keep the cutting moist while new roots develop.
Stem cuttings are often described according to the maturity of the growth being used:
<figure id="attachment_11899" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11899" style="width: 225px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/09/Beautyberry-cutting-3-scaled.jpg"><img decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-11899 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="" width="225" height="300" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/09/Beautyberry-cutting-3-225x300.jpg"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11899" class="wp-caption-text">American beautyberry is best propagated from softwood cuttings. Remove lower leaves and cut stem at a 45-degree angle. Photo: Lauren Spaduzzi, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
Softwood cuttings come from soft, tender growth produced during the current season. They root readily in many plants but can lose moisture quickly. <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/shrubs/beautyberry/">American beautyberry</a> (Callicarpa americana) and <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/gardenias/">gardenia</a> (Gardenia jasminoides) can be propagated from softwood cuttings.
Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from current-season growth that has begun to mature and become firmer. <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/shrubs/cocoplum/">Cocoplum</a> (Chrysobalanus icaco) and <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/firebush/">firebush</a> (Hamelia patens) can be propagated this way.
Hardwood cuttings use mature, woody stems. <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/carolina-jessamine/">Carolina jessamine</a> (Gelsemium sempervirens) and <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/trees/gumbo-limbo/">gumbo-limbo</a> (Bursera simaruba) are examples of plants that can be propagated from mature woody stem cuttings.
Rhizome cuttings use sections of underground stems containing buds capable of producing new growth. Cut the rhizome into sections, making sure each has at least one viable bud or growing point, and plant the sections in an appropriate growing medium. Gingers, such as <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/butterfly-gingers/">butterfly ginger</a> (Hedychium coronarium) and <a href="https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP036">shell ginger</a> (Alpinia zerumbet), can be propagated from sections of rhizome.
Different plants respond best to different types of stem cuttings, so identifying the plant and selecting the appropriate material are important.
<figure id="attachment_11919" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11919" style="width: 218px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/09/Untitled-design-8.png"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-11919 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="" width="218" height="300" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/09/Untitled-design-8-218x300.png"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11919" class="wp-caption-text">African violets can be propagated from a leaf cutting. Simply remove a leaf and approx. 1 inch of petiole from the plant. Place the petiole in a moist medium and cover with a humidity dome, such as a plastic baggy. Photos: Lauren Spaduzzi, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
&nbsp;
<h3>Leaf Cuttings</h3>
Some plants can produce an entirely new plant from a leaf or portion of a leaf. Depending on the species, a whole leaf and petiole may be used, or the leaf blade may be divided into sections. The leaf or leaf section is placed in contact with a moist rooting medium so that new roots and shoots can develop. In some plants, wounding or cutting the leaf can provide sites where that new growth develops. <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/begonias/">Begonias</a> are a familiar example.
This ability isn&#8217;t universal. A leaf from many plants may produce roots but never develop the shoots necessary to become a complete new plant.
<h3> </h3>
<h3>Helping Cuttings Succeed</h3>
Regardless of the type of cutting, start with healthy, vigorous plant material and use clean, sharp tools. Cuttings need adequate moisture while they develop roots, but the rooting medium should also drain well. Appropriate light and temperature are also important.
Plants naturally produce hormones, including auxins, that help regulate growth and root development. Commercial rooting hormones contain compounds that mimic or supplement the effects of naturally occurring auxins and can encourage root formation in some cuttings. However, supplemental rooting hormone isn&#8217;t necessary for every species. Rooting time can range from a few weeks to several months depending on the plant and the type of cutting.
Most importantly, match the type of cutting to the plant. Knowing whether a species roots best from softwood growth, mature stems, rhizomes, leaves or leaf-bud cuttings can save a great deal of time and explain why that cutting you stuck in a pot six months ago is still stubbornly just a stick.
Next month, we’ll look at another way to produce new plants: starting them from seed. Miss Part I? Read <a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/2026/08/27/a-gardeners-guide-to-plant-propagation-part-i-the-anatomy-of-propagation/">A Gardener’s Guide to Plant Propagation, Part I: The Anatomy of Propagation</a> here. Follow Us! We have several ways to connect. Join our UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ufifasextensionhillsboroughcounty">Facebook</a>, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDJtMNdNw7xDLqY3x8-7K0g">YouTube</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ufifas_hillsboroughcounty/">Instagram</a>, <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/o/ufifas-hillsborough-extension-8606873308">Eventbrite</a>, <a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/author/spaduzzil/">Blogs</a>, and <a href="https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsborough/lawngarden/master-gardener-program/">Website</a>
If you have any questions, please contact UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County at 813-744-5519 or email <a href="hillsmg@mail.ufl.edu">hillsmg@mail.ufl.edu</a>.
The University of Florida is an Equal Opportunity Institution. Adapted from CIR579 by Sydney Parker Brown.
&nbsp;

American beautyberry, pentas, gardenia, and coleus can all be propagated from softwood, or herbaceous, cuttings. Photo: Lauren Spaduzzi, UF/IFAS
In Part I of this series, we looked at the plant structures involved in propagation, including stems, leaves, buds and roots. Now it’s time to put that anatomy knowledge to work!

A cutting is a portion of a plant that is removed from the parent and used to produce a new plant. Unlike propagation by seed, propagation from cuttings is asexual, meaning the new plant is genetically identical to the plant it came from. In other words, the new plant is a clone of the parent plant.

The basic idea is simple: a cutting must replace what it lost. A piece of stem without roots must produce new roots, while a leaf cutting may need to produce both roots and shoots. Which plant part you take, and whether it can develop into a complete plant, depends on the species.

 

Awabuki viburnum is best propagated from soft or semi-hardwood cuttings. Start by removing the leaves from the lower half of the cutting to expose nodes. Photo: Lauren Spaduzzi, UF/IFAS
Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings are one of the most common ways to propagate landscape plants. A section of healthy stem containing one or more nodes is removed from the parent plant. The cutting can then develop adventitious roots, while buds along the stem produce new shoot growth.

Remember those nodes from Part I? This is why instructions often tell you to make a cutting just below a node. Remove the leaves from the lower portion of the cutting and insert that end into a moist, well-drained rooting medium, leaving one or more nodes above the surface. Keep the cutting moist while new roots develop.

Stem cuttings are often described according to the maturity of the growth being used:

American beautyberry is best propagated from softwood cuttings. Remove lower leaves and cut stem at a 45-degree angle. Photo: Lauren Spaduzzi, UF/IFAS
Softwood cuttings come from soft, tender growth produced during the current season. They root readily in many plants but can lose moisture quickly. American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) and gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides) can be propagated from softwood cuttings.

Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from current-season growth that has begun to mature and become firmer. Cocoplum (Chrysobalanus icaco) and firebush (Hamelia patens) can be propagated this way.

Hardwood cuttings use mature, woody stems. Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) and gumbo-limbo (Bursera simaruba) are examples of plants that can be propagated from mature woody stem cuttings.

Rhizome cuttings use sections of underground stems containing buds capable of producing new growth. Cut the rhizome into sections, making sure each has at least one viable bud or growing point, and plant the sections in an appropriate growing medium. Gingers, such as butterfly ginger (Hedychium coronarium) and shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), can be propagated from sections of rhizome.

Different plants respond best to different types of stem cuttings, so identifying the plant and selecting the appropriate material are important.

African violets can be propagated from a leaf cutting. Simply remove a leaf and approx. 1 inch of petiole from the plant. Place the petiole in a moist medium and cover with a humidity dome, such as a plastic baggy. Photos: Lauren Spaduzzi, UF/IFAS
 

Leaf Cuttings

Some plants can produce an entirely new plant from a leaf or portion of a leaf. Depending on the species, a whole leaf and petiole may be used, or the leaf blade may be divided into sections. The leaf or leaf section is placed in contact with a moist rooting medium so that new roots and shoots can develop. In some plants, wounding or cutting the leaf can provide sites where that new growth develops. Begonias are a familiar example.

This ability isn’t universal. A leaf from many plants may produce roots but never develop the shoots necessary to become a complete new plant.

 

Helping Cuttings Succeed

Regardless of the type of cutting, start with healthy, vigorous plant material and use clean, sharp tools. Cuttings need adequate moisture while they develop roots, but the rooting medium should also drain well. Appropriate light and temperature are also important.

Plants naturally produce hormones, including auxins, that help regulate growth and root development. Commercial rooting hormones contain compounds that mimic or supplement the effects of naturally occurring auxins and can encourage root formation in some cuttings. However, supplemental rooting hormone isn’t necessary for every species. Rooting time can range from a few weeks to several months depending on the plant and the type of cutting.

Most importantly, match the type of cutting to the plant. Knowing whether a species roots best from softwood growth, mature stems, rhizomes, leaves or leaf-bud cuttings can save a great deal of time and explain why that cutting you stuck in a pot six months ago is still stubbornly just a stick.

Next month, we’ll look at another way to produce new plants: starting them from seed.
Miss Part I? Read A Gardener’s Guide to Plant Propagation, Part I: The Anatomy of Propagation here.
Follow Us!
We have several ways to connect. Join our UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Facebook, YouTube, Instagram, Eventbrite, Blogs, and Website

If you have any questions, please contact UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County at 813-744-5519 or email hillsmg@mail.ufl.edu.

The University of Florida is an Equal Opportunity Institution.
Adapted from CIR579 by Sydney Parker Brown.

In Part I of this series, we looked at the plant structures involved in propagation, including stems, leaves, buds and roots. Now it’s time to put that anatomy knowledge to work! A cutting is a portion of a plant that is removed from the parent and used to produce a new plant. Unlike propagation by […]

A Gardener’s Guide to Plant Propagation, Part II: Propagating Plants from Stem and Leaf Cuttings

Have you ever read instructions to “cut just below a node” or “include an axillary bud” and wondered exactly what part of the plant that meant? Understanding a few basics of plant anatomy can make propagation much easier to understand, and eventually, easier to do. Plants have specialized structures that help them grow and reproduce. [&#8230;]

Have you ever read instructions to “cut just below a node” or “include an axillary bud” and wondered exactly what part of the plant that meant? Understanding a few basics of plant anatomy can make propagation much easier to understand, and eventually, easier to do.
Plants have specialized structures that help them grow and reproduce. For gardeners interested in propagation, some of the most important are stems, leaves, buds, petioles, and roots.
<figure id="attachment_11723" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11723" style="width: 582px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/08/MGV-SM-Plant-Anatomy.pdf-3.png"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-11723 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="" width="582" height="299" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/08/MGV-SM-Plant-Anatomy.pdf-3-300x154.png"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11723" class="wp-caption-text">Plant cutting diagram. Adapted from the Florida Master Gardener Program Student Manual 2025</figcaption></figure>
<h3>Stems</h3>
The stem supports leaves, flowers and other plant structures. It also stores food and serves as a pathway for moving water, minerals and sugars throughout the plant. Along the stem are nodes, the points where leaves and buds are attached. The sections of stem between nodes are called internodes.
Nodes are especially important in propagation because they are associated with buds that can produce new growth. Knowing where the nodes are can help you identify the right portion of a stem when taking a cutting.
Not all stems grow upright. Some plants produce specialized stems that grow horizontally. Stolons grow along the soil surface and can form new plants at their nodes, while rhizomes grow horizontally at or below the soil surface. Because both are stems rather than roots, they have nodes and buds capable of producing new growth.
<h3> </h3>
<figure id="attachment_11633" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11633" style="width: 589px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/08/MGV-SM-Plant-Anatomy-3-scaled.png"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-11633 " src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/08/MGV-SM-Plant-Anatomy-3-1024x791.png" alt="Stolon and rhizome diagram." width="589" height="455" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11633" class="wp-caption-text">Stolon and rhizome diagram. Adapted from the Florida Master Gardener Program Student Manual 2025</figcaption></figure>
<h3>Leaves</h3>
A leaf consists of a blade and, on many plants, a stalk called the petiole that connects the blade to the stem. The angle where a leaf joins the stem is called the axil, and this is where you may find an axillary bud. These buds can develop into new shoots. At the end of a growing stem, you may also find a terminal bud, which is responsible for growth at the stem tip.
Some plants have simple leaves, while others have compound leaves made up of multiple leaflets. One practical way to tell the difference is to look for the axillary bud: it occurs at the base of the entire leaf, not at the base of individual leaflets.
These structures become especially important when propagating plants. For example, a leaf-bud cutting includes a leaf, its petiole, an axillary bud and a short section of stem. Once the cutting roots, the axillary bud can develop into a new shoot.
In some plants, even the leaf itself can be used for propagation. <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/begonias/">Begonias</a> and <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/african-violets/">African violets</a>, for example, can be propagated using leaf cuttings. With some begonias, new roots and shoots can even emerge where veins in the leaf have been wounded.
<h3>Roots</h3>
Roots anchor plants, absorb water and nutrients, and can store food. But roots don&#8217;t always originate from other roots. Adventitious roots develop from non-root tissues, such as stems or leaves. This ability is particularly important in propagation: when a stem cutting begins to root, those new roots are adventitious roots.
Roots themselves can also be used for propagation. In certain plants, sections of healthy roots can generate new roots and shoots.
<h4>Anatomy is only part of the answer.</h4>
Recognizing these plant parts doesn&#8217;t mean you can determine the best propagation method simply by looking at a plant. Different species respond to different techniques. But understanding plant anatomy gives you the foundation to recognize the structures involved in new growth—and understand why different propagation techniques work.
Next month, we&#8217;ll put that anatomy to work by looking at how stems, leaves, buds and roots can be used to propagate plants from cuttings. 
Ready for Part II? <a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/2026/09/22/a-gardeners-guide-to-plant-propagation-part-ii-propagating-plants-from-stem-and-leaf-cuttings/">A Gardener’s Guide to Plant Propagation, Part II: Propagating Plants from Stem and Leaf Cuttings &#8211; UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County</a>
Follow Us!
We have several ways to connect. Join our UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ufifasextensionhillsboroughcounty">Facebook</a>, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDJtMNdNw7xDLqY3x8-7K0g">YouTube</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ufifas_hillsboroughcounty/">Instagram</a>, <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/o/ufifas-hillsborough-extension-8606873308">Eventbrite</a>, <a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/author/tsilvasy/">Blogs</a>, and <a href="https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsborough/lawngarden/master-gardener-program/">Website</a>
If you have any questions, please contact UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County at 813-744-5519 or email <a href="mailto:hillsmg@mail.ufl.edu">hillsmg@mail.ufl.edu</a>.
The University of Florida is an Equal Opportunity Institution.
&nbsp;
Adapted from CIR579 by Sydney Parker Brown.
&nbsp;
&nbsp;

Have you ever read instructions to “cut just below a node” or “include an axillary bud” and wondered exactly what part of the plant that meant? Understanding a few basics of plant anatomy can make propagation much easier to understand, and eventually, easier to do.

Plants have specialized structures that help them grow and reproduce. For gardeners interested in propagation, some of the most important are stems, leaves, buds, petioles, and roots.

Plant cutting diagram. Adapted from the Florida Master Gardener Program Student Manual 2025
Stems

The stem supports leaves, flowers and other plant structures. It also stores food and serves as a pathway for moving water, minerals and sugars throughout the plant. Along the stem are nodes, the points where leaves and buds are attached. The sections of stem between nodes are called internodes.

Nodes are especially important in propagation because they are associated with buds that can produce new growth. Knowing where the nodes are can help you identify the right portion of a stem when taking a cutting.

Not all stems grow upright. Some plants produce specialized stems that grow horizontally. Stolons grow along the soil surface and can form new plants at their nodes, while rhizomes grow horizontally at or below the soil surface. Because both are stems rather than roots, they have nodes and buds capable of producing new growth.

 

Stolon and rhizome diagram. Adapted from the Florida Master Gardener Program Student Manual 2025
Leaves

A leaf consists of a blade and, on many plants, a stalk called the petiole that connects the blade to the stem. The angle where a leaf joins the stem is called the axil, and this is where you may find an axillary bud. These buds can develop into new shoots. At the end of a growing stem, you may also find a terminal bud, which is responsible for growth at the stem tip.

Some plants have simple leaves, while others have compound leaves made up of multiple leaflets. One practical way to tell the difference is to look for the axillary bud: it occurs at the base of the entire leaf, not at the base of individual leaflets.

These structures become especially important when propagating plants. For example, a leaf-bud cutting includes a leaf, its petiole, an axillary bud and a short section of stem. Once the cutting roots, the axillary bud can develop into a new shoot.

In some plants, even the leaf itself can be used for propagation. Begonias and African violets, for example, can be propagated using leaf cuttings. With some begonias, new roots and shoots can even emerge where veins in the leaf have been wounded.

Roots

Roots anchor plants, absorb water and nutrients, and can store food. But roots don’t always originate from other roots. Adventitious roots develop from non-root tissues, such as stems or leaves. This ability is particularly important in propagation: when a stem cutting begins to root, those new roots are adventitious roots.

Roots themselves can also be used for propagation. In certain plants, sections of healthy roots can generate new roots and shoots.

Anatomy is only part of the answer.

Recognizing these plant parts doesn’t mean you can determine the best propagation method simply by looking at a plant. Different species respond to different techniques. But understanding plant anatomy gives you the foundation to recognize the structures involved in new growth—and understand why different propagation techniques work.

Next month, we’ll put that anatomy to work by looking at how stems, leaves, buds and roots can be used to propagate plants from cuttings.


Ready for Part II? A Gardener’s Guide to Plant Propagation, Part II: Propagating Plants from Stem and Leaf Cuttings – UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County

Follow Us!

We have several ways to connect. Join our UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County
Facebook, YouTube, Instagram, Eventbrite, Blogs, and Website

If you have any questions, please contact UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County at 813-744-5519 or email hillsmg@mail.ufl.edu.

The University of Florida is an Equal Opportunity Institution.

 

Adapted from CIR579 by Sydney Parker Brown.

Have you ever read instructions to “cut just below a node” or “include an axillary bud” and wondered exactly what part of the plant that meant? Understanding a few basics of plant anatomy can make propagation much easier to understand, and eventually, easier to do. Plants have specialized structures that help them grow and reproduce. […]

A Gardener’s Guide to Plant Propagation, Part I: The Anatomy of Propagation

A simple guide to diagnosing landscape problems before reaching for fertilizer. When plants start looking unhealthy, it&#8217;s tempting to reach for a bag of fertilizer. Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or poor flowering often seem like obvious signs of a nutrient deficiency—but fertilizing should be one of the last steps, not the first. Taking an &#8220;order [&#8230;]

<h4>A simple guide to diagnosing landscape problems before reaching for fertilizer.</h4>
When plants start looking unhealthy, it&#8217;s tempting to reach for a bag of fertilizer. Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or poor flowering often seem like obvious signs of a nutrient deficiency—but fertilizing should be one of the last steps, not the first. Taking an &#8220;order of operations&#8221; approach can save you time, money, and unnecessary fertilizer applications while helping you identify the real problem.
<figure id="attachment_11443" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11443" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/07/bubbler-in-pot_JR-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-11443 size-medium lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="" width="300" height="300" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/07/bubbler-in-pot_JR-300x300.jpg"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11443" class="wp-caption-text">A bubbler sprinkler waters a potted plant. Photo credit: Jackie Rivas, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
<h3>Step 1: Evaluate Your Watering</h3>
Start by evaluating your watering practices. Both too much and too little water can cause symptoms that look remarkably similar to nutrient deficiencies. Overwatered plants may develop yellow leaves, while underwatered plants often wilt, scorch, or stop growing. Before assuming your plants need nutrients, make sure they&#8217;re receiving the right amount of water for their species, soil type, and the current weather conditions.
You can also help your landscape make the most of every watering by maintaining a 2–3-inch layer of organic mulch around plants (keeping it a few inches away from trunks and stems). Mulch helps conserve soil moisture, moderates soil temperature, and reduces evaporation, meaning your plants stay hydrated longer between irrigation events. And don&#8217;t forget to follow your <a href="https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/weather/dealing-with-water-restrictions/">local watering restrictions</a> when irrigating your landscape.
<figure id="attachment_11445" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11445" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/07/Soil-sample-Tyler-Jones-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-11445 lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="" width="300" height="200" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/07/Soil-sample-Tyler-Jones-300x200.jpg"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11445" class="wp-caption-text">A spade full of freshly dug dirt. Photo credit: Tyler Jones, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
<h3>Step 2: Test your Soil pH</h3>
Next, test your soil pH. Soil pH plays a major role in nutrient availability. Even when essential nutrients are present in the soil, plants may not be able to absorb them if the pH is too high (alkaline) or too low (acidic). In other words, adding more fertilizer won&#8217;t solve the problem if the nutrients are effectively inaccessible. A simple pH test can reveal whether adjusting the soil chemistry is the best next step.
<a href="https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsborough/">UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County</a> conducts pH testing every Friday morning. Contact <a href="https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/">your local Extension</a> office to learn about the testing services available in your area. If you need a more detailed analysis, you can also submit a sample to the <a href="https://soilslab.ifas.ufl.edu/">UF/IFAS Extension Soil Testing Laboratory</a>. Learn more about collecting samples and our testing services here: <a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/2023/02/27/soil-testing-at-uf-ifas-hillsborough-county-extension/">Soil Testing at UF/IFAS Hillsborough County Extension</a>
<h3> </h3>
<h3>Step 3: Fertilize—If Needed</h3>
<figure id="attachment_11447" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11447" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/07/030300-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-11447 size-medium lazyload" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" alt="" width="300" height="200" data-src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/07/030300-300x200.jpg"></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11447" class="wp-caption-text">A homeowner waters her lime tree after spreading citrus fertilizer. Photo credit: Cat Wofford, UF/IFAS</figcaption></figure>
Once you&#8217;ve confirmed that your watering is appropriate and soil soil pH is in the proper range, you can consider fertilizing. Before applying fertilizers, be sure you understand any local fertilizer ordinances or seasonal restrictions. In Hillsborough County, the application of nitrogen- or phosphorus-containing fertilizers is prohibited from June 1 through September 30. If you live elsewhere, check your local <a href="https://ffl-apps.ifas.ufl.edu/fertilizer/">Florida Fertilizer Ordinances</a> before applying nutrients to your landscape.
When fertilizer is appropriate, choose the right product, apply it according to the label directions, and only use it when it&#8217;s truly needed. Compost is another valuable tool for building healthy soil. Adding compost to planting beds improves soil structure, increases organic matter, and supports beneficial soil organisms. You can even recycle leaves and yard debris back into your landscape through composting or a <a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/2026/05/29/chop-and-drop-gardening-turning-plant-waste-into-healthy-soil/">&#8220;chop and drop&#8221;</a> approach.
<h4>A Healthier Landscape Starts Here</h4>
The next time your landscape looks like it needs a boost, don&#8217;t let fertilizer be your first instinct. Remember the landscape order of operations: water, test, fertilize—if needed. Following that simple sequence is the first step toward healthier plants, healthier soils, and a healthier Florida landscape.
<figure id="attachment_11457" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-11457" style="width: 627px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/07/DISCOVERY-GARDEN-POND.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-11457 " src="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/files/2026/07/DISCOVERY-GARDEN-POND-1024x683.jpg" alt="" width="627" height="418" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-11457" class="wp-caption-text">Bette S. Walker Discovery Garden Pond. Photo credit: UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County</figcaption></figure>
&nbsp;
Follow Us!
We have several ways to connect. Join our UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ufifasextensionhillsboroughcounty">Facebook</a>, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDJtMNdNw7xDLqY3x8-7K0g">YouTube</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ufifas_hillsboroughcounty/">Instagram</a>, <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/o/ufifas-hillsborough-extension-8606873308">Eventbrite</a>, <a href="https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsboroughco/author/tsilvasy/">Blogs</a>, and <a href="https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsborough/lawngarden/master-gardener-program/">Website</a>
If you have any questions, please contact UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County at 813-744-5519 or email <a href="mailto:hillsmg@mail.ufl.edu">hillsmg@mail.ufl.edu</a>.
The University of Florida is an Equal Opportunity Institution.

A simple guide to diagnosing landscape problems before reaching for fertilizer.

When plants start looking unhealthy, it’s tempting to reach for a bag of fertilizer. Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or poor flowering often seem like obvious signs of a nutrient deficiency—but fertilizing should be one of the last steps, not the first. Taking an “order of operations” approach can save you time, money, and unnecessary fertilizer applications while helping you identify the real problem.

A bubbler sprinkler waters a potted plant. Photo credit: Jackie Rivas, UF/IFAS
Step 1: Evaluate Your Watering

Start by evaluating your watering practices. Both too much and too little water can cause symptoms that look remarkably similar to nutrient deficiencies. Overwatered plants may develop yellow leaves, while underwatered plants often wilt, scorch, or stop growing. Before assuming your plants need nutrients, make sure they’re receiving the right amount of water for their species, soil type, and the current weather conditions.

You can also help your landscape make the most of every watering by maintaining a 2–3-inch layer of organic mulch around plants (keeping it a few inches away from trunks and stems). Mulch helps conserve soil moisture, moderates soil temperature, and reduces evaporation, meaning your plants stay hydrated longer between irrigation events. And don’t forget to follow your local watering restrictions when irrigating your landscape.

A spade full of freshly dug dirt. Photo credit: Tyler Jones, UF/IFAS
Step 2: Test your Soil pH

Next, test your soil pH. Soil pH plays a major role in nutrient availability. Even when essential nutrients are present in the soil, plants may not be able to absorb them if the pH is too high (alkaline) or too low (acidic). In other words, adding more fertilizer won’t solve the problem if the nutrients are effectively inaccessible. A simple pH test can reveal whether adjusting the soil chemistry is the best next step.

UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County conducts pH testing every Friday morning. Contact your local Extension office to learn about the testing services available in your area. If you need a more detailed analysis, you can also submit a sample to the UF/IFAS Extension Soil Testing Laboratory. Learn more about collecting samples and our testing services here: Soil Testing at UF/IFAS Hillsborough County Extension

 

Step 3: Fertilize—If Needed

A homeowner waters her lime tree after spreading citrus fertilizer. Photo credit: Cat Wofford, UF/IFAS
Once you’ve confirmed that your watering is appropriate and soil soil pH is in the proper range, you can consider fertilizing. Before applying fertilizers, be sure you understand any local fertilizer ordinances or seasonal restrictions. In Hillsborough County, the application of nitrogen- or phosphorus-containing fertilizers is prohibited from June 1 through September 30. If you live elsewhere, check your local Florida Fertilizer Ordinances before applying nutrients to your landscape.

When fertilizer is appropriate, choose the right product, apply it according to the label directions, and only use it when it’s truly needed. Compost is another valuable tool for building healthy soil. Adding compost to planting beds improves soil structure, increases organic matter, and supports beneficial soil organisms. You can even recycle leaves and yard debris back into your landscape through composting or a “chop and drop” approach.

A Healthier Landscape Starts Here

The next time your landscape looks like it needs a boost, don’t let fertilizer be your first instinct. Remember the landscape order of operations: water, test, fertilize—if needed. Following that simple sequence is the first step toward healthier plants, healthier soils, and a healthier Florida landscape.

Bette S. Walker Discovery Garden Pond. Photo credit: UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County
 

Follow Us!

We have several ways to connect. Join our UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County
Facebook, YouTube, Instagram, Eventbrite, Blogs, and Website

If you have any questions, please contact UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County at 813-744-5519 or email hillsmg@mail.ufl.edu.

The University of Florida is an Equal Opportunity Institution.

A simple guide to diagnosing landscape problems before reaching for fertilizer. When plants start looking unhealthy, it’s tempting to reach for a bag of fertilizer. Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or poor flowering often seem like obvious signs of a nutrient deficiency—but fertilizing should be one of the last steps, not the first. Taking an “order […]

The Landscape Order of Operations: Water. Test. Fertilize—if needed.

Lawn and Garden Programs

Programas sobre césped y jardines

Volunteer Development

Desarrollo voluntario

Versions of these EDIS publications were included in the third (2005) edition of the Florida Lawn Handbook (out of print)

Florida Lawn Handbook

Soils and Fertilizers for Master Gardeners series

The Florida Master Gardener Volunteer Program is a volunteer-driven program that benefits UF/IFAS Extension and the citizens of Florida. The program relies on dedicated volunteers who have an interest in gardening and giving back to their communities.&nbsp;
For more information, go to the <a href="http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/">Florida Master Gardener Volunteer Program</a> website.

El Florida Master Gardener Program (Programa de Maestro Jardinero) es un programa impulsado por voluntarios que beneficia a UF/IFAS Extension y a los ciudadanos de Florida. El programa se respalda en voluntarios dedicados que tienen inter&eacute;s en la jardiner&iacute;a y en retribuir a sus comunidades.
&nbsp;
--<a href="http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/">The Florida Master Gardener Program website</a>

residential and commercial horticulture agent III, M.S., UF/IFAS Extension Columbia County, Lake City, FL 32055

Extension agent II, M.S., horticulture, UF/IFAS Extension Brevard County, Cocoa, FL